Slow travel notes from the Balkans
Buses instead of flights, villages instead of capitals, and far too much coffee. A personal journal, updated when there is something worth writing down.
Recent entries
Theth to Valbona on foot, without a guide
The classic Accursed Mountains crossing, with the honest version of the logistics.
Berat in November: empty streets and warm bakeries
Off-season in the city of a thousand windows is quieter, cheaper and arguably better.
Bus notes: Ohrid to Tirana via Struga
Crossing the border by minibus, with timetables that exist mostly in people's heads.